--- title: "A gas burner will not light" description: "KitchenAid a gas burner will not light — clicking with no flame, one burner out while the rest are fine, or a burner that lights and then goes out." url: "https://kitchenaidmiami.support/symptoms/burner-will-not-light/" date_modified: "2026-08-23" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges" --- # KitchenAid a gas burner will not light ### The fastest diagnosis is the code Take the burner cap off, dry everything, and put it back seated square — a cap sitting a fraction proud is the most common reason a burner clicks without lighting. Then look at the small ports around the burner ring and clear them with a pin rather than anything that will widen them. If every burner has stopped clicking, that is a different problem and it is usually the supply or the module. ### Nearly always the last boil-over Sealed gas burners are simple, and what stops them is usually what was cooked on them. Sugar and starch dry hard in the ports, a cap gets replaced a few degrees out of square, water gets under a cap during cleaning and stays there. All three produce a burner that clicks with conviction and does nothing, and all three cost nothing to put right. ### Count the burners before you call One burner affected is a burner. Every burner clicking at once is the spark module. No clicking anywhere is power or the module too. The Commercial-Style ranges are among the more service-prone machines in any kitchen because of what high-heat parts go through, so a burner that has been getting worse for months is worth booking rather than nursing. A cap that is not seated square Wet or misplaced after cleaning. The spark goes to the wrong place and no amount of clicking will light the burner. Free, and the first thing to check. Blocked ports around the burner A boil-over that dried in place. The flame goes uneven, then patchy, then absent on that burner while every other one behaves. A wet or cracked electrode The white ceramic spike beside the burner. Wet, it will not spark; cracked, it sparks somewhere useless. Both look identical from a step back. The spark module When every burner clicks at once, or nothing clicks anywhere. One part, all burners, and it announces itself by affecting the whole cooktop. The valve or the safety device A burner that lights and then dies when the knob is released is not an ignition problem — the flame is not being proved, and that is a different repair. Lift the cap, dry it, seat it square Both parts if your burner has a ring and a cap. This alone answers a large share of these calls, particularly in the day or two after a deep clean. Clear the ports with a pin The small holes around the burner ring. A pin or a paper clip, not a drill bit and not a toothpick that can break off in one. Notice how many burners are affected One is a burner problem. All of them clicking together, or none of them clicking at all, is a module or a supply problem — and that is worth saying on the phone. Then book the visit Tell us the model, whether it is one burner or all of them, and whether it lights and then goes out. That last symptom is the most specific one on this page. Clicking, and no flame What it usually means It clicks and clicks and never lights One burner dead, the others normal It lights and then goes straight out The fastest diagnosis is the code Take the burner cap off, dry everything, and put it back seated square — a cap sitting a fraction proud is the most common reason a burner clicks without lighting. Then look at the small ports around the burner ring and clear them with a pin rather than anything that will widen them. If every burner has stopped clicking, that is a different problem and it is usually the supply or the module. Nearly always the last boil-over Sealed gas burners are simple, and what stops them is usually what was cooked on them. Sugar and starch dry hard in the ports, a cap gets replaced a few degrees out of square, water gets under a cap during cleaning and stays there. All three produce a burner that clicks with conviction and does nothing, and all three cost nothing to put right. Count the burners before you call One burner affected is a burner. Every burner clicking at once is the spark module. No clicking anywhere is power or the module too. The Commercial-Style ranges are among the more service-prone machines in any kitchen because of what high-heat parts go through, so a burner that has been getting worse for months is worth booking rather than nursing. ### It clicks constantly, even with the knobs off. That is usually moisture where the electrodes are, and it often stops once everything has dried out — a day with the cooktop unused is a fair test. If it persists, it is the module or a switch stuck closed, and it is worth attending to rather than living with. ### The burner lights but goes out when I let go of the knob. The flame is not being proved to the safety device, so the gas is shut off deliberately. That is a repair rather than a cleaning job, and it is not something to work around by holding the knob in. ### Should I smell gas while it is clicking? Faintly, for a second or two, and then it should light. A persistent gas smell with no flame, or gas anywhere in the kitchen when nothing is running, means shutting the supply off and calling — the gas company first, then us for the appliance. --- **[Read full article: A gas burner will not light](https://kitchenaidmiami.support/symptoms/burner-will-not-light/)**