--- title: "What your KitchenAid is doing, and what it usually means." description: "KitchenAid dishwasher problems and what each one usually means, alongside the same for the refrigerator, the ice maker, the range, the oven and the microwave." url: "https://kitchenaidmiami.support/symptoms/" date_modified: "2026-08-23" --- # Symptoms archive ## What your KitchenAid is doing, and what it usually means. You do not need to know which part has stopped. Find the description that sounds like yours, read the free check at the top of the page, and if that does not settle it, the likely causes and what each repair starts at are on the same page. No page here asks you to book before it tells you anything. 37 — complaints with a page of their own free — the first check on every one of them 12 — appliance types covered from $95 — diagnostic, credited to the repair ## Find the one that sounds like yours Each page opens with the thing to try before calling anybody, then lists what the behavior usually turns out to be, cheapest cause first, with the figure that repair starts at. No symptom pages published yet. Call [(305) 306-1328](tel:+13053061328) and describe it in your own words — that is all we need to start. ## Nobody searches for a drain pump. They search for water in the bottom of the dishwasher. That is not a small distinction, and it is the reason this archive exists alongside the repair list. When an appliance stops, the behavior is the only thing you have: it will not drain, the Clean light is blinking, one side is warm and the other is freezing, it runs and nothing gets hot, there is water on the floor and you cannot see where from. Naming the part is the end of the diagnosis, not the beginning of it. A site organized only by part name quietly asks you to finish that diagnosis yourself before it will tell you anything — and if you could, you would not be reading. So these pages start where you actually are. **Every one of them opens with something free to try**, and a real number of them end there, which is a cost to us and the right way round. ## On this make, a surprising amount can be read before anybody arrives. More than on most equipment we work on, and it is worth knowing because it is free. - **The Clean light is a code.** A dishwasher with no numeric display still reports its condition: it flashes it on the Clean light in two bursts — the first is the F number, a pause, the second is the E number. Seven flashes, a pause, one flash is F7 E1. Count both *before* you cancel the cycle, because canceling is what erases it. That single habit is worth more than any description you could give us over the phone. - **PO is a notice, not a failure.** After a storm, a refrigerator showing PO is telling you it lost power for long enough to get warm inside and is waiting for somebody to acknowledge it. Nothing is broken. What matters is the thermometer, not the message. - **Which compartment is wrong settles most of it.** Fresh food warm with a cold freezer is airflow, not refrigerant — and it is the cheaper half of that page. Both warm together is a different search entirely. One sentence, and half the diagnosis is done. - **After an outage, set the clock.** Several appliances on this make will not run a timed function until the time of day is set. One can look completely dead and be perfectly well. None of that is a trick to keep you off the phone. It is the fastest route to an answer, and on a good number of these calls it is the whole answer. ## Three things that shorten every call None of them takes more than a minute, and together they change what comes on the van. The model number - Dishwasher: on the edge of the door, visible when it is open - Refrigerator: the upper left wall inside the fresh food section - Wall oven or range: the frame inside the door - Hood: behind a filter. Washer or dryer: inside the door opening What the appliance is reporting - Both halves of the code — the F number and the E number - Or the two counted bursts of flashes on a dishwasher Clean light - Whether it comes straight back after a minute at the breaker - A photograph of the display is worth a paragraph of description How it is fitted, and when it started - Freestanding, integrated behind your own panel, or in a tall housing - Stacked, in a closet, or in the garage - Whether it drifted over two weeks or stopped the night the power came back - Whether anything was cleaned, moved or serviced just before ## Or start from the machine If several of these sound like yours at once, the appliance page gathers them together and explains how they relate. ## 37 descriptions cannot cover every way an appliance goes wrong. The ones missing from a list like this are usually the odd ones — a noise only on one cycle, a smell only after a long wash, a machine that behaves differently when the air conditioning is running, something that started the week the kitchen was painted. Those are real, and we have seen most of them. If you do not see your own symptom here, it is not a sign that we do not cover it. **Call [(305) 306-1328](tel:+13053061328)** or use the form and describe it however makes sense to you. You will get a straight answer about what it is likely to be, and roughly what it costs, before anybody is booked — and if it is not our work, we will tell you that too. ## 325 conditions, decoded This maker writes its codes as a pair — an F number for the system and an E number for what it saw — and a dishwasher with no display flashes the same pair on the Clean light. Every code we publish has a page here saying what it covers and what a visit checks first. ## What people ask us first The Clean light is blinking. Is that a code, or is it broken? — It is a code, and it is the most searched complaint on this whole badge. A dishwasher without a display counts the number out in two bursts: the first is the F number, the second is the E number. Seven flashes, a pause, one flash is F7 E1 — not eight. Watch one full repeat before you press anything, because Cancel erases it and so does the breaker. It showed a code and then cleared on its own. Should I still call? — Write the number down first, then decide. A condition that clears and stays gone for weeks is often a control that got confused — by a power cut, a surge, a moment of heat. One that comes back is the appliance telling you the condition is real, and the number you wrote down is the difference between a diagnosis and a guess, because nothing on this make keeps a history you can read later. There is no number at all. What now? — Plenty goes wrong without one. A gas burner that will not light reports nothing, and neither does a hood, a washer or a dryer on this badge — those are described in plain words instead, which is what this archive is for. Start from what the machine is doing: what it does, when it does it, and what changed just before. Can I just switch it off at the breaker and see? — You can, and on 267 of the 325 published conditions on this badge that is the maker's entire instruction. But understand what it is: a test, not a repair. Give it a full minute so the control loses power properly, and write the code down first. If nothing comes back, the control was confused. If the code returns, the reset has proved the condition is live — and that is worth knowing before anybody drives out. The oven cooks fine but the display is dead. Is that urgent? — It is not an emergency, and it is not something to leave indefinitely either. On these ranges and wall ovens the display and the control are the same board, so a dark display often means the appliance is running without the part that is supposed to be supervising it — including the door lock during a cleaning cycle. Use it normally if you must, skip self-clean until it is looked at. ## How to describe a KitchenAid problem so somebody can actually help ### Say what it does, not what you think it is “It is not draining” is more useful than “I think the pump has gone”, because the second one has already thrown away three of the four possibilities. Water standing in a dishwasher tub is a filter, an air gap, a disposal plug or a drain loop far more often than it is a pump — and three of those four are outside the appliance. Describing the behavior keeps all four on the table. ### Say when it started, and what happened just before An appliance that drifted over two weeks and one that stopped the night the power came back are rarely the same problem, and the second one often begins with a clock that was never set. A cooktop burner that stopped clicking right after a cleaning is usually a cap sitting off-center. An oven that failed during a self-clean is a specific and well-known situation. The timing is frequently the diagnosis. ### Say which half is wrong On refrigeration this is the single most valuable sentence available. Fresh food warm with a cold freezer is a single-evaporator cabinet with an airflow problem — a fan, a damper or a defrost circuit — and it sits at the cheaper end. Both compartments warm together is a different search. One zone of a two-zone wine cabinet being wrong rules out the compressor outright. Which rack of a dishwasher is coming out dirty identifies the diverter before anybody arrives. ### Do not clear the code before you read it It is the only evidence the appliance has produced, and clearing it is the one thing that cannot be undone. Write down both halves and leave it showing if you can. On a dishwasher with no numbers, count the two bursts of flashes on the Clean light before you cancel — canceling is what erases them. ### Three pages here exist to stop you booking a visit A French-door cabinet sweating down the middle in humid weather is documented as normal on this make, and Energy Saver is the setting to look at. PO after an outage is a notice rather than a failure. A dishwasher that cleans perfectly and dries nothing is usually doing what it was designed to do. On a site that makes its living from repairs those three are a deliberate cost, and they are the right one — you should not pay for a visit to be told something the manufacturer already publishes. ### And three carry a safety line instead of a checklist A cracked ceramic or induction surface goes off at the breaker and stays off. The high-voltage side of a microwave is never an owner repair, because the capacitor holds a dangerous charge after the appliance is unplugged. And a dryer that keeps opening its thermal fuse is telling you about a blocked duct rather than about a fuse — replacing the fuse and stopping there sells you the same afternoon twice. ### What we are, and what the figures on this site mean We are an independent repair company. We are not affiliated with, authorized by, or endorsed by any manufacturer, and we do not carry out repairs on any manufacturer’s behalf. We carry our own warranty on the work we performed and the parts we fitted, and OEM parts are available on order. Every figure on this site is a starting point and a researched market range for South Florida rather than a quote for your KitchenAid — the exact cost is confirmed after an on-site diagnostic and agreed in writing before anything is opened. Brand names and model numbers are the property of their respective owners and are used for identification only. ## Describe it in your own words. You do not need to know which part it is. What the appliance is doing, when it started, and the model number are enough for us to tell you what is likely and what it should cost. --- **[Read full article: Symptoms archive](https://kitchenaidmiami.support/symptoms-archive/)**