--- title: "Range burner & ignition repair" description: "KitchenAid range burner and ignition repair — a burner that clicks and never lights, one that lights and goes out, or a whole top that has stopped sparking." url: "https://kitchenaidmiami.support/services/range-burner-and-ignition-repair/" date_modified: "2026-08-23" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges" --- # KitchenAid range burner & ignition repair ### What this maker builds, and what it means for the repair More than half of the current range line is the Commercial-Style machines — heavy, knob-controlled, in gas, dual fuel and induction, at 30, 36 and 48 inches. The rest are slide-in and freestanding ranges, including downdraft models with the ventilation built into the appliance. On the gas machines the ignition hardware is per burner, which is why a single dead burner is usually a small job. ### What actually goes wrong - **Burner caps and heads**, wet or misseated after a boil-over. - **Electrodes**, cracked or sooted, and their wiring. - **The spark module**, which is what a whole top that will not spark points at. - **The burner valve**, on a burner that will not hold a low flame or turns unevenly. - **The flame sensing circuit**, on a burner that lights and drops out. ### The range is two appliances On a dual fuel machine the top is gas and the cavity is electric; on an all-gas range they are still separate circuits with separate controls. A burner problem does not implicate the oven and an oven that will not heat does not implicate the top. Saying which half is affected when you book is the most useful sentence in the call. ### What it costs From $175, and heavy 36 and 48 inch machines slid between stone counters add planned time when anything behind the range is involved. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic. What this involves Caps, heads and electrodes checked before any electronics One burner and all burners treated as different problems Flame proved to hold on every burner before we leave One burner or all of them One burner out rules out the supply and usually the spark module, which is good news and a much smaller repair. All of them clicking and none lighting is a different search entirely. The cap and the head Wet or seated crooked after a boil-over, the spark goes to the wrong place. They come off, are dried and cleaned, and go back square — and on a real share of these calls that is the visit. The electrode and its wire Cracked ceramic, soot, or a wire chafed where it passes through the burner box. Measured rather than swapped, because the module costs several times the electrode. Lights but will not stay lit A different problem from one that never lights: the flame sensing is not seeing the flame, or the burner is starved. It gets tested on a full burn rather than a quick click. What this maker builds, and what it means for the repair More than half of the current range line is the Commercial-Style machines — heavy, knob-controlled, in gas, dual fuel and induction, at 30, 36 and 48 inches. The rest are slide-in and freestanding ranges, including downdraft models with the ventilation built into the appliance. On the gas machines the ignition hardware is per burner, which is why a single dead burner is usually a small job. What actually goes wrong Burner caps and heads, wet or misseated after a boil-over. Electrodes, cracked or sooted, and their wiring. The spark module, which is what a whole top that will not spark points at. The burner valve, on a burner that will not hold a low flame or turns unevenly. The flame sensing circuit, on a burner that lights and drops out. The range is two appliances On a dual fuel machine the top is gas and the cavity is electric; on an all-gas range they are still separate circuits with separate controls. A burner problem does not implicate the oven and an oven that will not heat does not implicate the top. Saying which half is affected when you book is the most useful sentence in the call. What it costs From $175, and heavy 36 and 48 inch machines slid between stone counters add planned time when anything behind the range is involved. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic. ### One burner clicks and clicks and will not light. Start with the cap and the head. If they are wet or sitting crooked after something boiled over, the spark is going somewhere useless. If they are clean, dry and square and it still will not light, it is that burner's electrode or its wire far more often than the board. ### All the burners click even when I only turn one on. Normal on many of these — the spark module fires every electrode at once. What is not normal is clicking that continues after the burner lights, which usually means moisture around a switch or an electrode and often clears once everything is properly dry. ### It lights and then goes out a few seconds later. That is worth distinguishing from "never lights", because it points at the flame sensing rather than the ignition. Keep the burner off and book it — a burner that lights and drops out is one to stop using in the meantime. ### What does the repair cost? From $175, with an electrode at the low end and a spark module or a burner valve higher. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic and agreed before anything is ordered. --- **[Read full article: Range burner & ignition repair](https://kitchenaidmiami.support/services/range-burner-and-ignition-repair/)**