--- title: "Cooking control & display repair" description: "KitchenAid cooking control and display repair: a code on the display, a keypad that does not answer, or an appliance that has not been the same since the…" url: "https://kitchenaidmiami.support/services/cooking-control-and-display-repair/" date_modified: "2026-08-23" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges, Wall ovens" --- # KitchenAid cooking control & display repair ### Half of what a cooking appliance shows you is not a failure On the ranges and wall ovens this maker builds, the display carries messages as well as codes. PF means the power failed. LOC or Lock means the control lock is on. SAB means Sabbath mode. A plain C means the display is set to Celsius. A blank clock can be a feature somebody switched on. None of those is a repair, and all of them get called in as one. ### What actually goes wrong - **The clock never set** after an outage, which stops timed functions and imitates a dead appliance. - **The touch panel or keypad**, which is where heat and hands meet. - **The control board**, which is what most F-and-E codes on these appliances point toward. - **The wiring at the outlet**, on the codes the maker attributes to a miswired outlet or the supply rather than the appliance. - **The induction generator**, on induction ranges and cooktops, which reports separately from the rest of the machine. ### Storm season, and what we actually see Florida leads the country for lightning and outages come with the summer. What we can honestly tell you is what the maker documents: appliances report a power failure, several will not run timed functions until the clock is set, and a breaker cycle of five full minutes is the reset that works. A control that will not clear after that needs a visit — and that is the line between a phone call and a repair. ### What it costs From $265, and lower when the answer turns out to be a reset or a setting rather than a part — in which case you will hear that first. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic. What this involves Codes and display words read before anything is cleared Documented resets tried before any part is proposed Keypad and control board proved as separate parts Read the display exactly Both letters and both digits, or the word. F2 E1 and F2 E0 are related and not the same, and PF, LOC, SAB and a plain C are messages rather than failures. Written down before anything is cleared. Rule out the free ones Control lock, Sabbath mode, a display set to Celsius, a hidden clock, and a clock that was never set after an outage — which stops several timed functions and makes a working oven look dead. A proper power cycle The breaker off for five full minutes rather than a few seconds. It is the maker's own documented reset for several control conditions and it costs nothing to try. Separate the keypad from the board A touch panel and the control behind it are different parts at different figures, and they produce the same unresponsive appliance. Proved apart before either is ordered. Half of what a cooking appliance shows you is not a failure On the ranges and wall ovens this maker builds, the display carries messages as well as codes. PF means the power failed. LOC or Lock means the control lock is on. SAB means Sabbath mode. A plain C means the display is set to Celsius. A blank clock can be a feature somebody switched on. None of those is a repair, and all of them get called in as one. What actually goes wrong The clock never set after an outage, which stops timed functions and imitates a dead appliance. The touch panel or keypad, which is where heat and hands meet. The control board, which is what most F-and-E codes on these appliances point toward. The wiring at the outlet, on the codes the maker attributes to a miswired outlet or the supply rather than the appliance. The induction generator, on induction ranges and cooktops, which reports separately from the rest of the machine. Storm season, and what we actually see Florida leads the country for lightning and outages come with the summer. What we can honestly tell you is what the maker documents: appliances report a power failure, several will not run timed functions until the clock is set, and a breaker cycle of five full minutes is the reset that works. A control that will not clear after that needs a visit — and that is the line between a phone call and a repair. What it costs From $265, and lower when the answer turns out to be a reset or a setting rather than a part — in which case you will hear that first. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic. ### My range says PF. What has broken? Nothing, probably. PF is the maker's own way of saying a power failure happened — the same message a flashing time of day is giving you. Set the clock and the appliance normally goes back to work. It is one of the calls we take most in storm season and one of the shortest. ### The display shows something like F2E1. It is a two-part code and both halves matter: the F names the system that reported and the E names what it saw. Write the whole thing down before you cut the power, because clearing it is easy and it is the only evidence the appliance has produced. ### The keypad does nothing. Check for the control lock first — it is usually a long press on a marked key and it gets switched on by accident constantly. Words like LOC or Lock on the display say the same thing. If the panel is genuinely dead, cut the power at the breaker for five full minutes before assuming a part. ### What does a control board cost? This work starts at $265 and a board sits at the upper end of it, which is exactly why we prove it rather than assume it. The exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic and agreed with you before the part is ordered. --- **[Read full article: Cooking control & display repair](https://kitchenaidmiami.support/services/cooking-control-and-display-repair/)**