--- title: "Ranges" description: "KitchenAid ranges: one appliance and two systems that fail independently. More than half of this maker's current ranges are the Commercial-Style machines…" url: "https://kitchenaidmiami.support/appliances/range/" date_modified: "2026-08-23" Appliance type: "Ranges" --- # KitchenAid ranges ### The configurations, and why they matter Commercial-Style ranges in gas, dual fuel and induction, at 30, 36 and 48 inches. Slide-in ranges in gas and electric, including the downdraft models. Freestanding and double-oven ranges at 30 inches. What changes is the fuel and the ventilation, and both change the parts and the appointment. ### What actually goes wrong - **Ignition on the gas tops.** Electrodes, the spark module and burner caps that have been through a boil-over. - **The oven sensor**, drifting, which is the temperature complaint. - **The bake or broil element, or the oven igniter** on gas cavities, which is the heat complaint. - **The door latch**, and nearly always after a self-clean. - **The control board and the keypad**, which is where a range goes after a brownout — and where an F#E# code on the display points. - **The induction generator**, on the induction ranges, which is a power supply in its own right and reports separately. ### Slid into stone Most of these are fitted between stone counters, and some of the 36 and 48 inch machines are heavy enough to need two people to move. Anything behind the range means bringing it forward, and that is planned time on the appointment rather than a surprise on the day. ### What to have ready when you call The model number, the fuel, the width, and whether the trouble is above the worktop or below it. Commercial-Style · Slide-in · Freestanding · Double oven · Downdraft · Gas, electric, dual fuel, induction Range repair The oven not reaching temperature, or running far out A surface burner that clicks and never lights A door still locked hours after a self-clean The configurations, and why they matter Commercial-Style ranges in gas, dual fuel and induction, at 30, 36 and 48 inches. Slide-in ranges in gas and electric, including the downdraft models. Freestanding and double-oven ranges at 30 inches. What changes is the fuel and the ventilation, and both change the parts and the appointment. What actually goes wrong Ignition on the gas tops. Electrodes, the spark module and burner caps that have been through a boil-over. The oven sensor, drifting, which is the temperature complaint. The bake or broil element, or the oven igniter on gas cavities, which is the heat complaint. The door latch, and nearly always after a self-clean. The control board and the keypad, which is where a range goes after a brownout — and where an F#E# code on the display points. The induction generator, on the induction ranges, which is a power supply in its own right and reports separately. Slid into stone Most of these are fitted between stone counters, and some of the 36 and 48 inch machines are heavy enough to need two people to move. Anything behind the range means bringing it forward, and that is planned time on the appointment rather than a surprise on the day. What to have ready when you call The model number, the fuel, the width, and whether the trouble is above the worktop or below it. ### The burners are fine and the oven is not. Is that one repair? One visit, two systems. On a dual fuel range the top is gas and the cavity is electric; on an all-gas range they are still separate circuits with separate controls. An oven that will not heat is an element or an igniter, its sensor, or the relay driving it, and none of that touches the cooktop. Saying which half is affected when you book is the most useful sentence in the call. ### One burner clicks and clicks and will not light. Start with the cap and the head — if they are wet or seated crooked after a boil-over, the spark goes to the wrong place. If it is clean and dry and still clicking, it is the electrode or the spark module. A burner that lights and then goes out a few seconds later is a different repair from one that never lights, and it is worth noticing which yours does. ### The self-clean finished and the door is still locked. Give it a couple of hours to cool fully, because the lock is meant to hold until it is safe. If it is cold and still locked, do not lever it — the latch motor or its switch has failed with the door shut, and forcing it turns a latch into a door. It is a same-day call. ### What is a downdraft range? A slide-in range with the ventilation built into it, drawing across the surface and down instead of up into a hood. This maker builds them in gas and electric. It is worth naming when you book, because the blower and its ducting are part of the appliance and a hood is not. ### The oven is thirty degrees out but it works. Almost always the temperature sensor drifting rather than failing, and it is a modest part. Consistently out and swinging wildly are two different problems: the first is a sensor, the second is more often the element cycling or the control. --- **[Read full article: Ranges](https://kitchenaidmiami.support/appliances/range/)**